Friday, 29 February 2008

Sensations of Surf


Surfers have known it for some time, but many visitors to Todos Santos aren’t even aware of the magnificent and elemental surf that we can get here. Some visitors don’t even find the beaches (though the recent addition of a restaurant / bar / real estate office on Los Cerritos may help these people find their way)!

There is very little in the way of waves generated by storms thousands of miles away in the Pacific, and the long sandy beaches north of town. When the waves finally collide with the shore after their long journey, the results can be spectacular, and remind us of our essential insignificance.

Surf’s up

Nestled in town
In the quiet of deep night
I can hear it
As incongruous rhythmic susurration
An inversion of cool air
Magically reflecting sound
From far away beaches

On the scrubby hills
Perched high above the beach
I can feel it in my body
As tremulous movement
In the fundamental rock
Beneath my feet

But up close
I buckle
Under sensory overload
Ears assaulted by a constant roar
Counterpointed by percussive beats
That shake my body
As waves travelling from distant continents
Rear aggressively
In their final moments
To expire on the beach
The blue of the once placid sea
Littered with off-white foam
Detritus of explosive blasts
Of blinding white spray
Now drifting across the dunes
Licking my skin
With unaccustomed salt coolness

This is no forgiving sea
No gentle background
For casual recreation
It’s raw
It’s humbling
It’s part of the real Magic
Of Todos Santos.

1 comment:

Ian Lidster said...

I love the surf because if there is big surf, I know I am someplace where I want to be. It has the same effect of hearing the breeze rustling the fronds of a coconut palm.
When I was on Rarotonga, however, the nice of the surf 24/7 was as loud as a 747 taking off and it actually got wearing and we used to trudge up into the jungle hills to get away from it for a while.