Wednesday, 5 March 2008

Spring Back


There’s a palpable change in the energy in Todos Santos these days, as we slide deeper into March. You can feel it in the sudden thinness of the public social calendar, which was so hectic only a few weeks ago. The major events of the season are over (with the last one, the Home and Garden tour, having to be cancelled this year due to, well, mostly due to volunteers having too many other things to do). Drumming has come to an end, and there are no more intimate concerts on the horizon.

Why is this? The transient population is preparing to return to their summer haunts. The lure of distant family, the return of milder weather up North, and the call of taxes beckons people to leave Todos Santos and return to their real lives.

It’s not that there is no social activity. It becomes more localized, catching up on making good on such promises as “We really must have you round for dinner some time” when you suddenly notice that three months have gone by. Indeed, there’s somewhat of an air of desperation, trying to fit such events in to maintain your sense of being a person of your word when you are still busy dealing with the stragglers of visitors.

Days that used to be enjoyed in timeless or mindless recreation now need to be spent getting projects done that need to be completed before you leave, and in making arrangements for care of the place while you are away.

Conversations on the beach are no longer totally preoccupied about what houses have sold, but instead revolve around dates of departure. It is a time for goodbyes, perhaps until later in the year, perhaps for longer or even forever, as real life intervenes in the meantime.

There are still throngs of tourists snapping their way through town, and it will continue for some time after the transients have left. It’s Spring Break now and, although the main circus group heads for Cabo, some outliers, and those with parents in tow, end up here on excursions and maybe even to stay for a few days.

As the human energy changes, so does the natural energy. The sun rises earlier each day, gradually moving its entry point across the horizon. One of our bathroom windows is now dappled with sunshine filtering through mango leaves early in the morning, which I find delightfully peaceful. The sea fog is more persistent on many days, an indicator of the rising land temperatures. There’s an unusual haze in the afternoons from the relentless sun, and the whole land seems appropriately lazy.

As the month progresses, even the whales will decide to head to cooler waters with their new family members. They’re still around now, but in smaller numbers, and little by little, it will become less common to see several spouts from the beaches.

After we’ve gone, the issues that preoccupied us here will seem somewhat unreal, as we enter a completely different environment. And the winter will also seem somewhat surreal, an escape from reality that will be stored away as we get on with our “real lives”, only to re-emerge at the forefront of our minds as the threat of an awful wet, cold Fall approaches.

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